Wednesday, September 24, 2008
The Great Debate
There are many different kinds of mp soap on the market, but not all brands are made equally. I personally love mp because it's quick. It's easy. More importantly, for me, it's versatile. I love using shaped soap molds to make what I call soap creations. You can embed things in it. You can use additives such as herbs and salts. You get the point. BUT.... not all mp soaps are the same. There are many different brands on the market, and many of these brands contain stuff I can't even pronounce. For that reason, I only use what's called natural or organic soap-no sulfates or foaming agents. They can be very drying which is why extra glycerin is added to mp soap.
CP soap, on the other hand, is made from scratch. They're unique in appearance, color, and texture. No two batches will hardly ever look the same. There are dozens upon dozens of different oil and butter combinations you can use to make cp soap. That's where the science of soap comes in. It can be dangerous because it involves the use of lye or sodium hydroxide. You must wear protective gear whenever making soap from scratch. You must never attempt to make soap from scratch with children or pets around (I'm not saying if you have children or pets, do not make cp soap. I'm saying, don't have them in the same area when making soap.)
Okay, I'm getting off my "soap box." I just had to put it out there that I believe mp is real soap, and that you have choices-not only as a soap maker, but a lover and buyer of soap. Now, go wash your ___________________.
Sunday, August 31, 2008
How To Make Soap-The Tyler Durden Way
One of my favorite movies is Fight Club. It's gory, it's grimy, but it's also funny. One of the funniest scenes is the scene where Tyler Durden (played by the delicious Brad Pitt) explains to the Narrator (played by the un-sexy, sexy Ed Norton) how to make soap. He renders tallow, er fat, by.....Well check this scene out for yourself.
If you have a weak stomach or no sense of humor, you may not want to watch this.
Monday, August 25, 2008
Must....Make....Soap........!
I'm shaking from the withdrawal. I haven't made any soap in about three weeks? That last batch discouraged me greatly so I backed off (and I'm running low on soaping oils.) I did make a small batch yesterday that I call Summer's End. I wanted to give it a rainbow effect, but it didn't quite pan out that way. I used olive oil, coconut oil, and castor oil. While I'm not pleased with the aesthetics of it, I do like the way it smells. The FO I used is from Day Star Supplies, and it is a blend of pineapple, orange, guava, papaya, with a hint of vanilla and coconut. They claim there's no discoloration, so I'll be watching this one closely. Here's a pic, but again, I'm not thrilled with the "look" of it.
Wednesday, August 13, 2008
Mac and Cheese Anyone?
On a more positive note, I got my pillar wax today from Candle Science, so I'm making flames! Check in with ya'll later.
Tuesday, August 12, 2008
Making Lemonade
I've made two batches of soap this week, and neither has turned out like I want. I used the rest of my SoapQuick from Mission Peak Soap (Check out my older posts for the lowdown on SoapQuick.) I really like that this is a pre-blended mix of oils. It's a lifesaver for experimenting and/or cranking out mass quantities of soap. I'm a small-batch gal because I feel my skills are not yet to the level where I feel I can sell a lot of CP soap, but don't get it twisted, my soap is sell able, usable, and lovable:-). I just haven't mastered the art of the swirl or layering yet, but I'm working on it!
My second batch is called Rain Water that I actually got from Candle Science (it is bath and body safe.) It's a very light and crisp floral. I'm not a big fan of florals but I really like this one. It's also got essential oils of grapefruit, tuberose, and lemon. It holds very nicely in CP soap. The one thing about this soap that didn't turn out right: the color. We all know that blue colorant (I used pearl blue mica again from Go Planet Earth) does not like lye (okay, now you know.) I used it anyway, and the soap turned out a mint green. I actually like it. My cutting leaves little to the imagination, but I'm excited to see how this turns out.
So in parting: When life gives you lemons, just make lemonade. Next up: Banana Split. I'm going to try layering. Wish me luck!
Monday, July 28, 2008
A Little Sweet Potato Swirl
ps-I'll post the Blackberry Vanilla in a day or two.
Tuesday, July 22, 2008
Feelin' Spicy!
I've been inspired to reach out to my inner spice and create some lathers that are "manly feminine." My first creation is something I call Hot, Hot Delivery Guy. It's a heady blend of ginger and lime that I picked up from Daystar Supplies. They call it Ginger Lime, but that's so obvious. This scent is so seductive to me. It's masculine. It's feminine. It's.....different. I haven't tried it in CP soaps yet, but it's very strong in the MP brand I use from SFIC Corp. I'm using an oatmeal base here, and I sprinkled a little silver mica on top for kicks. Smells great on my skin!
Sunday, July 20, 2008
New Suppliers
I happened to be flipping through some of my old Saponifier mags, and I saw this add for Columbus Foods. What an obvious place to look for wholesale soaping oils. I have yet to find a site where you can buy 7 pounds of olive oil for less than $15.00. If you know of one, please let a sister know! Anyhoo, I go on a spree. They sell the oils in 7 pound increments, so I buy pomace olive oil, palm kernel oil, Castor oil, coconut oil, and rice bran oil. With shipping, I spent about 80 bucks. Not bad for 35 pounds of oil. When I finally get the delivery, I don't know what I was expecting, but what I have are 5 big yellow jugs. They remind me of anti-freeze containers. I'm so excited. I can't wait to start soaping. I immediately make two batches-a coconut lime shampoo bar and a concoction I call Sweet Sticky Thing. I'll post pics in a few days, but I encourage you to look at Columbus Foods if you haven't already.
Tuesday, July 15, 2008
Well, It's Not A Total Loss
Sunday, July 13, 2008
Now Why Didn't I Think Of That????
One of my biggest challenges when making CP soap is coloring the soap. Either my raw soap is too thick or the color I choose does not take to the pH levels of the soap and it turns a totally different color. Well, I learned how to combat that to some degree by incorporating this smart trick: Take about 6 oz (more or less depending on the size of your batch) of M&P soap and color it your desired shade. Add it to your raw soap or use it to create your swirls, and VOILA! You have the perfect shade. I'm making a batch of soap now using this technique, and I shall reveal the results tomorrow. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
Monday, June 30, 2008
I've Been Vindicated!!!!
- 24 oz. hydrogenated soy
- 8 oz. cocoa butter
- 10.56 oz water
- 4.142 oz lye (5% superfatted)
- 2 oz Yuzu
- Orange zest dye from Peacock Dyes
- Silicone loaf mold
(Shout out to Brambleberry for having a handing lye calculator on their site)
I have a confession to make: I do not calculate the temps of my oils and lye. I have had really good success (the meatloaf soap doesn't count) adding the lye straight to my liquified oils. One lesson I've learned is once you've added your fragrance, do not use your hand mixer to incorporate the scent. It could accelerate trace. Simply fold the fragrance in with your soaping spoon or spatula (never metal-wooden or plastic is best). Oh, I forgot to mention that I poured about 8 oz of the unscented raw soap in a separate container. I color that with my dye to create swirls (I have yet to master the art of the swirl, but that's another blog post in itself.)
To make a long story short, my Yahoo Yuzu turned out pretty good. My swirls leave little to be desired, but you will probably be seeing this soap on The Soap Seduction. Here is the final result.
Sunday, June 29, 2008
Eww!!!!
- 16 oz. all-vegetable shortening
- 8 oz. hemp oil
- 8 oz. sweet almond oil
- 10.56 oz. water
- 4.127 oz. lye (5% superfatted)
- French vanilla pear FO from Wholesale Supplies Plus
- Green dye
Where did I go wrong? For starters, I used a water based dye. Duh! What was I thinking? When I added the dye to my raw soap, it turned a maroon-ish color. But no, I used it anyway. Hey, aren't Bartlett pears brown? Anyway, I knew I was doomed when I saw my creation turn brown, red, and yellow all at once. But I kept the faith. "It'll be alright," I lied to myself. Well, here is the soap, I mean, oil/lye disaster in all it's glory. Could it have been the oil combo? Or was it the FO? Or was it truly the dye? If someone has some insight, please share. Meanwhile, the meatloaf- shaped atrocity is in the garbage. Happy soaping!
Thursday, March 27, 2008
Always Read The Labels!!!!
Lesson to self and to others: Always read the labels!
Does It Really Do That????
The first product I bought is a vanilla-stabilizing M&P base from Natures Garden. This base is made with 99.5% glycerin and deodorized, double-distilled coconut oil, and Vitamin E. They actually had me at $4.25 for two pounds, but I'll take the double-distilled coconut oil. Anyhoo, I'm a little pissed at myself for buying four 2-lb slabs of this base because one, I've never tried it, and two, it's transparent (my fault for not reading the descriptions carefully.) I put a few chunks in my Pyrex cup and zap it in my microwave for about a minute, and it's now a yellow liquid. I'm slightly panicking at this point because I don't want a translucent cupcake soap, so I'm fully disclosing now that I've added a few small cubes of cocoa butter M&P soap from one of my other fave suppliers Candles and Supplies. Even after that, the soap is still too clear, but I proceed with what I have. The good news is I don't have to color this soap because it's already a light yellow. After I release the soap from my mold, I hook up some "icing" to pour over the soap. It too is also translucent. I'm not happy folks. Let's move on, shall we?
The second product I bought was from Wholesale Supplies Plus. It's a liquid additive actually called Vanilla Stabilizer. I was reading the ingredients list, and guess what it contains? Vitamin E! You simply add a tablespoon for every pound of soap. Since I'm only making one cupcake for now, I added about 2 teaspoons to 8 oz of soap. To that, I added a tablespoon of Cupcake fragrance. Yeah, yeah, it's a lot of fragrance, but I love this scent, what can I say. It literally fills my apartment with the scent of freshly-baked cupcakes. I color the soap with a tiny drop of yellow dye. My icing is used with the same soap base only I added a tiny drop of red and came out with this pinky-peach color.
Now for the test: I present 3 cupcakes: one using the vanilla-stable soap base, one using the vanilla stabilizing additive, and one using nothing. I'll post an update on Saturday to show how these soaps turned out. The soap on the left is the pre-made base. The soap on the right is my beloved cocoa butter M&P with no additives, and the soap in the back is the cocoa butter M&P with the the vanilla stabilizer added. I'm dying with anticipation to see how these turn out!
Tuesday, March 11, 2008
The Big Reveal-Ashy SoapQuick
Sunday, March 9, 2008
SoapQuick-Part Deux
- 64 oz of SoapQuick
- 19 oz of water
- 9.2 oz of lye
What I did was weigh out the oils in my large, plastic measuring cup. I didn't actually think it would all fit, but it did. After I weighed the oils, I poured them into my huge bowl that I've designated as my soap-making bowl. Next, I poured the lye mixture directly into the oils. Mind you, the oils are completely liquid. That's the glory of using the SoapQuick. There are no hard oils to melt. Even if I were using the traditional soaping method, I could still pour the lye mixture directly onto the solid oils without having to melt them completely. According to Old Crone's book, I could use my stick blender to help melt and mix everything. After blending the oils and lye in a few short bursts, I could see that my "soap" is starting to take shape. I've reached a slight trace at this point, and I've now added my fragrance oil (about 2 oz of Chocolate Truffle.) I'm not adding any color to the soap this time because my finished soap will darken over time due to the vanilla content. I also stopped using my stick blender at this point as once you've added your FO, you should only stir with your wooden spoon. Using the blender could accelerate trace in your soap and thicken it to the point where it's not pourable. You'd actually have to scoop it out. I've had this happen several times, and the soap turned out fine, it was just a damn mess trying to scoop it out of the bowl into the mold.
Speaking of molds, I bought a new one from my friend Julie over at Candles and Woodcrafts. I figured it was time I invested in a quality, wooden soap mold, and Julie's got a vast selection. I bought a pegged, wooden mold that would hold precisely 4 lbs of soap. I particularly like the pegged molds because the sides come completely off, and it is a bitch trying to line a soap mold-at least for me anyway. I lined the mold using freezer paper with the shiny side up. The only problem I had with the mold was getting the pegs in the holes after I lined the mold. I did leave a few out. Bad idea because I had a few leaks after I poured my mixture. With the soap in the mold, I covered the top with plastic wrap, wrapped a towel around it, then placed the wooden top over that. I did not want to set the top directly on the mold because it would have smushed down in my soap, and I wasn't about to have that!
I couldn't resist peaking at my soap after a few hours. One, I'm forever impatient, and two, I wanted to make sure I reached the gel phase which is the chemical process of your lye and oil mixture actually turning into soap. Yeah, I've reached the gel phase, and later, I'll unveil the finished product!
Wednesday, February 20, 2008
Bubblin Fun
- Microwave-safe bowl
- 16-24 oz of M&P soap (that's melt and pour for you novices) I personally like oatmeal M&P because it's already tan in color like cookie dough. If you don't have oatmeal soap, use white M&P as opposed to clear because you want the soap to have a "solid" appearance
- brown, skin-safe dye if you're using white M&P soap
- 1/2-1 oz of cookie dough fragrance oil (FO)
- wooden spoon
- freezer or parchment paper
- cellophane or plastic wrap
- ribbon or rapphia
- clean hands
- Cut the soap into small squares and toss into your bowl. This allows for even melting and shortens your melt time.
- Place bowl in your microwave and melt it in 30 second blasts. Do this at least 3 times. You could just zap the soap for a minute+, but all microwaves aren't the same and you could scorch or burn your soap. You don't want your soap piping hot. The goal is to melt it into liquid form. You may notice that your soap has an alcohol-y smell. That's okay. Once you add your FO, it will dissipate.
- The liquid soap will be hot, so if there are still some chunks, just stir it with your spoon so the chunks are incorporated into the liquid soap. If you still have a lot of chunks, blast it in 20 second bursts til it softens, then stir to melt it down.
- Now is the time to add your FO and dye. Stir well to incorporate.
- Now that your soap is liquified, you want it to form a "skin." That's when your soap begins to solidify. Now is the time to work quickly, but not like Speedy Gonzalez.
- Using your hands, you want to scoop some of the cooled mixture (that's important. The soap should be warm to the touch, but not so hot that you can't handle it) and begin to start forming balls with it. The size is totally up to you. You don't want perfect, round balls, but they should be textured and messy like real cookie dough. If the soap isn't firm enough, let it set for about 3 minutes or so. It doesn't take long to cool.
- Again, the consistency should be sticky and gooey. If it's too hard, zap it for about 10-15 seconds. Once your "dough" is formed, set it on your freezer or parchment paper so they can harden. I like to leave mine overnight so that it's really solid and hard. You don't want it to break apart as soon as you touch it.
- Once they've hardened, your soap is now ready to either use or package for gift-giving. You can wrap them in cellophane or plastic and tie a piece of ribbon or wrapphia around them. Here is a pic of my finished soap. Hope you have fun making yours. Smooches!
Sunday, February 17, 2008
SoapQuick-Day 3
My prediction came true-I totally ruined this batch for a number of reasons: I rushed the process because I was so eager to post to the blog. Soap making is a science. Why do I keep forgetting that? So what really went wrong? One, I don't think I measured my oils and lye properly. I've never worked with a pre-made batch of oils before, and I didn't take the time to do my calculations. Secondly, I didn't gauge my temperatures correctly. I think my oils were too warm for my lye solution, and I also think I used too much fragrance oil, and I didn't stir in my dye long enough (look at the color patches on top.) Lastly, I've got to stop using plastic to line my mold. My soap keeps seeping through the plastic and the plastic gets stuck in the "cracks." Friends, I'm not discouraged. I'm encouraged. Now that I've assessed all that went wrong, I'm going to try it again, but this time, I'm going to do it right. Here's a few pics of the soap from hell. Oh, but I have a consolation prize. Look at these cute chocolate drizzle bars I made. I'm going to be selling them on the Soap Seduction starting tomorrow. Be sure to pick up a bar or two-smells just like you're favorite candies.
BAD SOAP